When Life Gives You Grapes...Make Grappa

Last Sunday turned out to be one of the nicest days we've seen here in Italy this winter.  The sun actually came out and there were few clouds in the sky.  It would have been a nice ski day, but a particularly vicious form of the flu devastated 50% of this household for days, so skiing didn't seem like the best thing to do after four days on the couch.

Grappa- the cure for the flu

We trekked to the nearby town of Bassano del Grappa, perhaps most well known for the liquor that bears its name.  Although I'm not really into grappa, I did want to see this town as I heard it was quite picturesque.  The drive up, which only took about an hour, was perhaps the most entertaining part.  Our trusty GPS took us on some of the roads less traveled in Italy and we cruised through some rural Italian towns in our awesome rally car.

The Ponte degli Alpini

On the bridge

The Alpini who restore and protect the bridge

Once in town, we walked through a few of the main piazzas.  The piazzas in the Veneto region all look very similar with their lion statues and castle-like architecture.  We found our way to a high point in town that looked over the river and the famous Ponte degli Alpini, the wooden bridge built and restored by the Alpini soldiers.  We then walked down to the bridge and checked out the sites surrounding the bridge, which included several ceramic and grappa shops.  The wooden bridge has been destroyed several times throughout history, including during World War II.  Today, the bridge is very well preserved and on this Sunday, it was packed.  We were apparently in the know because the whole town was out on this day window shopping and walking around the city.  We stopped for a hot chocolate and continued our walk, eventually ending back at this church where we parked.  It was an enjoyable Sunday stroll through a town we were finally able to cross off our to-do list!

"Ireland, I am Coming Home..."

Usually the holiday weekend in January is reserved for skiing.  This year, it turned out to be the perfect time to go visit my cousin in Dublin.  Ireland has been on our list of must-see places for a while now and we are determined to get back and see more of the countryside.  We couldn't pass up a chance to see the city, especially when we had a place to stay and a somewhat local to show us around.  (Side note: Every person that I told I was "going to Dublin to see my cousin" immediately assumed I was going to see my Irish cousin from Dublin.  Those who know Alisa know that she's just another American living abroad for a bit!)

We had an enjoyable weekend seeing the sites in the city and catching up with Alisa and Brayden.  Dublin is an interesting European city and is less cosmopolitan than most places we have been.  Ireland has also fallen on some hard times and the city does reflect some of this in its many closed store fronts.  Despite this, we finally enjoyed being in a country where we spoke their language and actually kind of looked like we had some potential to be locals.

Lovely scene over the River Liffey

Dublin did surprise me and here are a few reasons why:

1. The weather is not as bad as people think. When you think Ireland, you probably think rain.  While there was a spontaneous rain shower one day and the wind was a bit high, the weather was quite pleasant in January, especially compared to Northern Italy where we have had nothing but fog and rain since November. Nobody thinks Italy = bad weather, but this gray, overcast monotony is brutal.

2. There are palm trees in Dublin.  I wish I had a picture of this, but many yards and public places had these palm-tree like plants that looked completely out of place.  I at least thought there might be shamrocks growing abundantly all over the place...but palm trees?  

3. The Kilmainham Gaol is a fascinating tourist attraction.  Although it's a bit off the beaten track, it's well worth the visit, especially if you're not too familiar with modern Irish history.  I learned more in the short tour and museum than I have my entire life about Ireland's recent struggles for independence.  It's also a bargain at 6 Euro for a guided tour and entry to the museum.

Inside Kilmainham Gaol

4.  The Guinness Storehouse tour is overrated.  The Irish know it's their most popular tourist attraction and charge an arm and a leg to enter the Disney World-esque factory.  They talk about the main ingredients of beer, such as water, like they invented them on site.  Although there is an interesting exhibit on old Guinness commercials and marketing efforts and a 360 view of Dublin from the Gravity Bar, the museum is a bit of a tourist trap. I know, I know, it's a must-do when in Dublin, but for a better, slightly cheaper tour, visit the Jameson Distillery where you might even be chosen to become an official whiskey taster!

My goodness...my Guinness!

Official Whiskey Taster!

5. There are surprisingly a lot of NFL fans in Dublin.  I have nothing more to say about this for obvious reasons.  

6. Phoenix Park is a lovely city park.  It also happens to be the largest city park in all of Europe.  We visited the park for a bike ride and took in the sites with many other Irish runners, rollerbladers and bikers.  The park is home to the President of Ireland, the US Ambassador to Ireland and a bunch of deer.  Alisa told us about the deer in the park, but I thought maybe we'd see one in the woods.  Imagine my shock when we stumbled upon hundreds of deer grazing on a soccer field in the park!  Seriously one of the strangest things I have ever seen.  Check out the antlers too!

Deer, deer everywhere!

7. Dublin is diverse. I'm sure the majority of people are of Irish descent, but there were several other nationalities represented in the city. We ate dinner at a delicious Czech-Irish pub and passed by many Slovak gift shops.  It's also pretty easy to get Indian and Thai food around the city.

8. The night life is pretty intense.  We ventured out to a few pubs on Saturday night and found every single one packed...like special event, New Year's Eve style packed.  Alisa also warned me that Irish ladies wear dresses in pubs at night.  This is very true and thanks to Ryan Air's one bag limit, I definitely left my dress back in Italy.  The night scene also goes pretty late.  While we were headed back at an unspecified time of the evening, the streets were busier than they were in the middle of the day!  Most restaurants were still open and serving food too.

9.  Irish television is quite entertaining.  If you ever get the chance, check out Take Me Out- a great Irish dating show that we need to have in the States.  

10.  Everything in Dublin, by law, is in English and Irish.  I thought it was called Gaelic, but the locals call it "Irish".  Apparently most people don't actually speak the language in the city, although it is taught in schools.  I thought I was bad at French and German...I don't know a word of Irish.

 We will be back soon to tour more of the country and see some of the more rural sections, but Dublin was a wonderful start to 2011.

Special thanks to our gracious hosts.

The End of 2010

Last week capped off one of the strangest travel weeks I've had.  It went a little something like this...bus from Italy to Germany to ski in Austria for three days back to Italy on a bus only to wake up the next morning and drive to the airport and take a plane back to a different part of Germany for New Years.  A crazy week...but probably appropriate for the end of a crazy year that had me bouncing from North Carolina to Quincy to Italy.  Here's how the last week was spent...

"Working" on the Slopes
The first leg of last week's travels was a "business" trip.  I chaperoned a three day ski trip to Germany/Austria.  (Our accommodations were in Germany, but the skiing was in Austria).  I spent one full day and two half days at Ehrwald, a ski resort just near the Western Austrian/German border.  I had high expectations for Austrian skiing, but turns out, I like the Italian places we've been better.  Ehrwald was much smaller than some of the Italian resorts and since it was Christmas week, it was fairly crowded.  A nice dusting of snow on Tuesday night helped with conditions, but by the end of Wednesday and Thursday, they were less than desirable.  I did have to sit in the mid-mountain restaurant as the chaperone there for a good part of Wednesday, but I managed to get an afternoon shift so that I was skiing the best runs in the morning.  I didn't get to explore much of the mountain while skiing because I had a group of kids who were determined to only stay on the easiest trails for three days.  I've reasoned that I'm fairly adept at ski chaperoning and waiting for kids to come down the mountain.  When people ask me where I learned such skills, I tell them I spent many years waiting for my sister to make her way down the slopes, no exposed skin and all.

 

Happy 2011!
After a fun-filled three days with middle and high school students, it was time to head back to Germany.  The hub and I planned to spend NYE in Heidelberg, Germany with our friends Johnny and Mimi who we met in North Carolina.  The whole idea behind living in Europe was to be stationed with them in Heidelberg, but clearly, that backfired. 

Heidelberg is a lovely little town in Central Germany.  It's fairly Americanized, thanks in part to the military presence and a large international university.  To get to the downtown area, we hopped on a trolley similar to (although far more efficient, modern and clean) the green line.  The main streets downtown are lined with all types of stores and restaurants, which was a welcome change from the streets of Italy.  We were able to eat ribs, chicken wings, and all sorts of nasty American food.  It was delicious.

We also met up with another military couple who came from North Carolina and live nearby in Germany.  The wife is Brazilian and brought her Brazilian friend who was visiting.  Turns out, I learned a whole lot about New Year's in Brazil and not so much about New Year's in Germany.  December in Brazil is summer time, so party goers pack the beaches for a raucous party.  My Brazilian friends tell me it's pretty crazy and they were laughing at the lack of people celebrating in Germany.  They also helped me with some Portuguese...Feliz Anno Novo!  One of the girls had never been to Europe and rarely experienced cold weather.  She marveled at the snow outside (she'd never seen it before), being able to see her breath (she called it breathing fire) and winter clothes (she borrowed everything she was wearing).  I also asked them about the only Brazilian I know...Gisele.  They said she's very highly regarded in her home country.  When I asked them about Tom Brady, they said that he's just Gisele's husband, or her baby's daddy.  I tried to tell them otherwise without much success.

Ringing in 2011 with the Brazilians!

At midnight, we were standing on the Old Bridge downtown over the Neckar River.  Unlike at home, there was no countdown or planned fireworks show.  The mass of people decided when it was midnight themselves and just lit off a slew of their own fireworks.  I actually thought I might get hit with one since it was commonplace to just light them in a massive crowd as you can see here...

One thing I did learn about German New Year festivities is that they are called Silvester Parties.  Every restaurant and bar in town had a sign for the Silvester Party.  I saw it at the first place we went (it said, "Silvester Party, Entry Free") and I thought it was nice of the Silvester's to let us in to their party.  At the next place we went, I saw it again and thought Wow, these Silvester's sure are having one hell of a party here in town.  Turns out, everyone has a Silvester Party and like Chinese food restaurants at home that have special New Year's menus, German restaurants had Silvester menus.

On New Year's Day, we ventured out on the town again and visited the Heidelberg Castle, a structure high above the town with great views.  I'm not sure of the significance of the Castle, but it was destroyed by the French and is in the process of being rebuilt.  Ironically, the intact section of the castle is home to an expensive French restaurant...

View of the city from the Heidelberg Castle

The other highlight of our trip was visiting with Selma, Johnny and Mimi's bulldog puppy.  Someone in this household whose name is not Lisa has wanted a bulldog puppy for years and I've managed to avoid getting one every time.  I'm just not much of a dog person and having grown up with the amazing and immortal Jennifer the cat, I just can't be bothered by all the hassle that dogs are.  As you can see, Selma was kinda cute and may have softened my heart just a little...

How can you say no to a face like this?

On our way to the airport on Sunday, we stopped by Ramstein Air Force Base.  Hearing that they have great facilities, we decided to check it out.  Not only do these great facilities include a shopping mall, they also have a Chili's!  An American Chili's!  With American menus and American servers and American portion sizes!  In all our excitement, we ordered way too much food and didn't need to eat for the rest of the day!  Oh how I miss terrible American food!

Hoping 2011 brings more opportunities to travel....and also a chance to travel back to Quincy!